Wednesday, April 16, 2014


On a cold, rainy night in the cobble-stoned Skadarlija, I ducked into an old, candle-lit restaurant and found a troupe of Serbian mariachis plucking and crooning old tunes. Bienvenido a Belgrade. Viva Serbia!

I warmed up on vinjak (wine brandy) and čorba od pečuraka (Cream of Mushroom soup). I dined on delicious whole grilled trout; its skin crispy- its meat, white and flaky, along with a side of garlic spinach and potatoes. A glass of wine from Montenegro.

For dessert, I ate tufahije- a baked apple filled with crushed pistachios and chantilly cream. I sipped kajsijevača (apricot brandy), while I read Mr. Dickens' Oliver Twist under candle light.

The band played a gyspy version of Frank Sinatra's "My Way" and I slipped some dinar into the folds of the accordion. Like Frankie said, "Ја то урадио на свој начин"

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